Set out to study medicine, entering the field of fashion was a hurried decision for Nomi, who realized by default that that was actually where his greater interest lied. Hence it was this profession, which became his key to fame and fortune. Besides luck and undying support from his family, friends and clients it has been Nomi’s connection with his passion and focus that has lead the label to places.
Having successfully achieved that and after ascertaining a strong client base, expansion called for a growing demand for new innovative designs and fresh blood in to the establishment. Therefore, Nomi Ansari started a process of hiring graduates in fashion and textile to assist him in his design philosophy and taking the label forward.
ABOUT THE STUDIO
Nomi Ansari Studios was established in 2001 soon after the creative director graduated from Pakistan School of Fashion Design (an institute affiliated with La Chamber Syndicate de la Parissiene, France). The main purpose was to reach out with a new style aesthetic on a national basis. However, it was the distinct designs and use of color and fabric that the Nomi Ansari statements caught up with many Asians living in the United States, United Kingdom and the Middle East.
Today, Nomi Ansari Studios supplies not only prêt but also Eastern and Western couture pieces to Dubai, India, United Kingdom and United States. In Pakistan itself this labels is stocked with Asad Tareen’s The Designers and has a prêt store in Lahore. 9 years since the inception has shown Nomi Ansari Studios upward progression where it has participated in the first Pakistan Fashion Week and many other fashion shows. Their fashion portfolio comprises work with Pakistan’s leading super models, photographers and make-up artists.
THE RAW MATERIAL
Nomi Ansari Studios is known for its creative use of colour. Combining five or more colour of belonging to colour families, which are poles apart, is what a Nomi Ansari signature piece is all about. Screaming colours and the required specific detailing is only possible on pure and natural fabric. Therefore fabric used for clients and major designs comprises of all kind of pure silks, voile, cottons, chiffons and brocade.
Most of these fabric are imported from China, however brocades are vastly available in Pakistan. In fact many looms and weaving units have been setup where local skilled labour weaves customized fabric. Many fabric outlets have these fabrics up for sale but Nomi Ansari Studios purchases fabrics directly from the manufacturers, which results in authenticity and also the fact that those fabrics and woven designs are exclusive and not available elsewhere. The embroidery materials are widely available in all colour and shapes at many shopping areas in Pakistan therefore, their accessibility is never a hindrance.
Skilled hand and machine embroiderers are widely available and many are in the process of being trained as ‘karigars’ (skilled labor) be it in the field of hand embroidery, machine embroidery and tailoring. However at Nomi Ansari Studios these workers have to undergo a great deal of speculation and observation after which they are hired and put on the pay roll.
The Nomi Ansari Studios workshop comprises of a great number of workers who cater to client orders as well as new season designs. There is usually never a fixed time for new designs. Innovative designs are constantly coming up and sent out in fashion shows, ever for cultural and religious festivities new design are processed and a line of collection is sent out to the prêt stores.
It is due to these factors that skilled labor is always kept in the loop to cater to the embroidery needs of new designs as well as new collection lines which are sent to the stores approximately once every month.
Due to the vast client base, which is mainly from the overseas, it’s not only necessary but soon becoming a concerned need of Nomi Ansari Studios to pay special attention to its quality assurance. Since the cost of the entire process is very costly therefore it important to check the production for defects from the beginning and then at every stage onward, rather than after the entire procedure is finished. This results in saving of cost and the most important resource- time.
Before a particular yardage is divided in pieces and sent in for dying it is thoroughly checked for nips, laddering, and other defects in weaving. Its is then torn according to respective measurements and dyed in the required color. Along with the other pieces which belong to the set.
After the fabric is received from the dying department it is again checked for uneven dying and aliens spots. Most importantly it is checked with the sample color to ensure that the color dyed is specifically what it was sent in to be.
At the embroidery and stitching stage it is checked for loose stitches and dirt marks. After the procedure is complete it is once again check to ensure that the standard of the product is up to the mark so that no customer complaints are received after delivery.
Nomi Ansari Studios ensures that its quality assurance is never wavered. This is not only due to conserving time and cost but also to maintain a healthy and long-lasting relationship with it client base not only nationally but also internationally where such options of alterations and alternatives are not available.